Vincent Girardin 2005 Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne
Smoky aromas of flinty silex and chicken broth; in an awkward stage. Then sweeter than the basic Corton-Charlemagne bottling, at once more opulent and more closed. Can't match the '06 for grip or class but this boasts superb richness and smoky depth. Today I find this less pristine and less vibrant than the regular bottling, but it's also extremely unevolved, and longer and more powerful on the back end.